Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Gagosian goes GaGa

Lady GaGa by Damien Hirst

What do you get when you give a celebrity obsessed Italian artist free reign and full pocket to throw the party of the century?
"Ballets Russes Italian Style (The Shortest Musical You Will Never See Again)"
The 30th Anniversary Gala for the Museum of Contemporary Art LA was the product of a bold move by chairs Larry Gagosian and Maria Bell to hand over the event planning to artist Francesco Vezzoli, and the immense creativity of the heavyweights who collaborated on the night.
For those of you that don't already know, Vezzoli is an Italian new media artist who is generally preoccupied with the glamourous iconography of cinema, whose resume already hosts rather impressive collaborations with actors Natalie Portman, Cate Blanchett and Anita Eckberg. The "Ballets" concept was originally conceived in a proposal to Dasha Zhukova's Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture, but hadn't seemed a feasible project given the economic climate. A year later, with a lot more thought and seemingly endless funds, the performance of sorts finally took place.
An enormous tent was erected outside the Arata Isozaki designed museum, draped entirely in red velvet and filled with chandeliers and Constructivist posters of Vezzoli and Lady Gaga- who later performed the 'musical' ("Speechless") on a Steinway Grand painted pink and covered with butterflies by artist Damien Hirst, in a hat engineered by Frank Gehry surrounded by Bolshoi ballerinas costumed by Miuccia Prada.
Inspired.

original costume sketched by Muiccia Prada

Monday, November 23, 2009

All Wrapped Up

Weighing in on the Body Con trends...


Peter Pilotto
Is a body con bandage dress only as good as the body it bandages?
And do you want the dress, or the body in it?
Boys, that one wasn't for you.
After several seasons of being able to get away with a waist, a face and a dash of wit, the scale is now tipping in the gym junkie's favour with sky-high hemlines and skin-tight lines. There are so many things in that last sentence that scare me- the most of which is the outrageous graphic reference to -gasp- exercise. Why, you may ask, would I ever suggest such a thing?
Though these dresses hug the figure, they do little to support it, and short of resorting to some kind of terrifying strap and strangle support garment or, god forbid, anything with Ricki Lee Coulter's name on it, I suggest you try to break a sweat at least once a day. I don't care if EVERY starlet at the Oscars says she owes her slim figure to Nancy Ganz, we all know she owes it to starvation and a PT, not that box of a thousand Nanna knickers in her basement being listed on eBay as we speak.
Lets face it- this season, the clothes are worth it. If you plan to invest in a strong shoulder and a strong shoe, you're going to have to skim the body somewhere or run the risk of looking like a fashion-forward Front Row Forward, so blame yesterday's Alaia and Leger, blame today's Decarnin, blame women who have spent hours on a stair master/tai-bo/yoga-chi-lates-whatever and want to show it off, just be aware that this summer you're going to have to shape up because these looks are here for a while. If the pieces above aren't inspiration enough, stand in front of a four-way mirror.
All that said, designers are doing all they can to soften the sport of a slinky dress. Cross-over draping in slip-thin jerseys and silks, sequining and tapestry detailing, ruching, ribbing and wrapping in nudes and ochres, accented with aquas and acid and punctuated with basic black, feature heavily with personal favourites such as Peter Pilotto, Yigal Azrouel and Rodarte, and it seems to add an intelligence and femininity to what is essentially a fairly sexually aggressive silhouette- more assertive than suggestive, the ultimate accessory ofcourse being the bod.
Now about that sweat...
Yigal Azrouel

Images courtesy of Style.com

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Bang Bang!

I know these Chanel heels are old news, but they're still good news!

Monday, October 12, 2009

Sex Shop

Bob Richardson for Vogue Italia 1972
If a good shoe is all about sex, then the average shoe department has either taken a vow of celibacy or is standing on a street corner.
Function be damned- there are few things more terrifying than a 'sensible' shoe- unless by sensible you mean a patent pump or an equestrian boot, but we needn't delve too deep to imagine the sexual implications of either; Helmut Newton himself noticed Hermes was the best sex shop in the world.
Being confronted by rows and rows of shoes of a low to medium heel or (gasp) rubber soles, accompanied by assistants wielding words like "comfortable" and "practical" is enough to make you quake in your Loubies and- for a girl with a shopping habit quite like my own, somewhat like scorched earth. The mirage of a 12-inch stiletto would surely make you swoon. A Fendi boot can be practical- a Chanel ballerina, always, but Hush Puppies are just plain wrong.
In any event the inevitable Fashion Week images making breaking news of models falling off skyscraper heels and those bizarre, although admittedly fascinating, McQueens (incidentally my only objection is that they are not in the least bit flattering to the leg), had me determined to find a new pair of ankle-breakers all of my own.
At the moment uber-sexed platform heels seem the perfect foil not only for the mannish tailoring we have been playing with for a while now, but also the austere and aggressive body-con looks shoulder-charging streets and runways. Do not, however, discount their appeal with a pretty floral this summer.
Every good shoe has une grande histoire- strappy Gucci sandals scream tawdry sex, hotel bathrobes and billfolds. Gladiatrix heels? Well, some things are all in a name. Platforms promise sex but play hard to get; platform sandals say look but proceed with extreme caution, platform botines are all bedroom eyes and rock star poses....let's just say a woman in a YSL platform is like a good Pinot; "temperamental, time consuming and expensive".Heels have always been loaded with sexual mystique; taught calf/fleeing beast theories, Freudian complexes and fetishes abound- in short I think we can all agree that there is more to it than meets the eye, but a Croc plays no part in this.
This said, a shoe doesn't always have to put on the red light to speak sex, consider the penny loafer- the foot's equivalent of the white cotton brief.
Clean, preppy, and polite.

Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan French Vogue 1974

Thursday, October 1, 2009

My Heart Rate Rapid

What do you do when you need to release the pressure?
Some read, others mindlessly browse the Internet, too many exercise and- let's be honest, we all drink. I highly recommend unplugging the ipod and getting out and about to hear your favourite music live! There is nothing like a killer beat and a bit of quirk to work the knots out.
A little bit alternate, a touch of electronica, occasionally pop, but always white hot- Metronomy took the time this week to swing by Sydney on their world tour, and this little girl is very happy they did.
So, what does a band who has opened shows for Karl Lagerfeld sport on stage? What else but all black and electric lamps around the neck, linked to the sound system.
Nice touch.
Check out tour dates here

Friday, September 25, 2009

All Tied Up


You would have to be buried under a rock, or waiting at home for your next Fed-Ex of American Apparel, to not have realised the bow-tie is back in a big way. While French and Italian men never really put down the penguin suit, and English men have always known how to dandy up a Henley look- bowties have rarely crossed over stateside save for the occasional eccentric Classics professor, or the Australian Club; Biarritz, yes- Bondi, no.
Until now.
The sartorially inclined- women and men alike- should appreciate another opportunity to accessorise, with Alexis Mabille, Armani and Tom Ford happy to oblige editorial,
Le noeud papillon is currently fitting out Sydney's stylish set with an exclusive and exquisitely finished range of pretties, inspired by the original elegance of Charvet, including a particularly fetching pink seersucker number named after yours truly. After already having sold out, a second run is now available through the website, and another run in my beloved periwinkle has been promised in the near future. Incidentally I will be wearing it all summer!
Best worn with a hint of irony and a sense of humour, I am particularly enamoured of boys in bow ties button downs and Bowie locks.
Get tied up at www.leneoudpapillon.comphotos courtesy of The Sartorialist and Trendy Crew

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Paper Bag

Kemp Muhl and Sean Lennon

Marking the 25th Anniversary of a magazine that has managed to remain fashion forward and generally on the cooler side of things is quite an occasion, and when Paper Mag is the title in question it promises to be quite the party! Hewlett Packard stepped in to help fund the festivities- a celebration of "paper and ink"- at New York Public Library, with a "creative black tie" dress code.
Looks like/sounds like a good party- probably smells like too, but would that be freshly cut flowers or sex and cigarettes?
So, what happened?
Granted it pulled the usual uber kid crowd; the expected models, hipsters and younger designers (and Betsey Johnson), a smattering of Park Avenue, a few rockstar's adolescents, some intellectuals.... and Hanson.
That's right, I said Hanson.
The middle child Taylor (for those of you who remember he was the one who most resembled a girl) actually made the cover of the anniversary issue poppets, and I'm not talking Teen Hits circa '95, I am talking Paper. Please Explain?
Do read Paper though- if only to see how Hanson grew out of their braces.
Check it out here.